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I've been looking around at various composting methods including worm bins, tumblers and plain old "piles". We live on a small suburban lot, and I need some guidance. Cost effectiveness and least amount of odor are top priorities. What would you suggest?

Tags: compost, fertilizer, vermicomposting

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Wow, it's so great to see so many composters on here!

Cassandra, that 96 gallon tub sounds absolutely amazing. I'm using the 5 gallon bucket method myself. Works pretty well, I've finally learned to stop overloading the bin so it doesn't get wet & smelly.

Thanks for calling the ecology center Cornelia, I was starting to wonder if I should take the worms inside myself. I've insulated them with a whole lot of shredded paper so they're probably fine for another month, but then they'll have to come inside.

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I'm really looking forward to being about to start one. Other people have done it already and they are fantastic! I've seen only one with pictures. It would take forever to fill if you ever did and the compost to come out of it! I've checked prices and they are expensive upwards of $200 but the one woman lucked up and got hers for $15!

Aliza Ess said:
Wow, it's so great to see so many composters on here!

Cassandra, that 96 gallon tub sounds absolutely amazing. I'm using the 5 gallon bucket method myself. Works pretty well, I've finally learned to stop overloading the bin so it doesn't get wet & smelly.

Thanks for calling the ecology center Cornelia, I was starting to wonder if I should take the worms inside myself. I've insulated them with a whole lot of shredded paper so they're probably fine for another month, but then they'll have to come inside.

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Composting on CNN.com - in the TECH section no less!?

http://www.cnn.com/2009/TECH/10/22/composting/index.html

Although it seems more like an ad for Real Simple than real news.

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My husband cut the bottom out of a rain barrel and we've been using that. He gives it a turn with a pitchfork every now and then. We don't really need to compost, as we live on a llama farm and there's always plenty of free fertilizer, but we do so anyway to reduce our contribution to the landfill.

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The biggest key to success with any composting project is keeping your carbon (brown stuff) to nitrogen (green stuff) ratio correct. Ideally you want 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. An easy way to get this is to mix equal parts leaves and grass clippings. Most kitchen waste falls in the nitrogen category so if you were to add a pail of vegetable scraps you would want to add some leaves, straw, or other brown stuff.
If you find you have a smelly pile, three things might be the culprit. The first is anaerobic composting. This can be caused by too much nitrogen or too much water. You know how a pile of grass clippings starts to stink after a few days? That's anaerobic decomposition. The second cause may be that your pile isn't getting hot enough. If you are hardcore about your compost, you should get yourself a compost thermometer (it looks like a really long meat thermometer). Stick it in your pile and monitor your temp. If the temperature drops or stays the same over a period of days, turn your pile. This introduces more food to all the critters eating your pile and the temp. should rise. 130 degrees is what you're shooting for. Most plant pathogens and weed seeds are killed at this temp. The third cause may be compaction which can lead to the first two causes. Compost needs air. If your pile is larger than say 3x3x3 you should have something in the center to allow air in. Perforated drain pipe works well, or even a teepee of sticks.
And remember, unless you have a wicked hot pile, don't put ant meat or dairy in. Not only will it stink, you'll also have every raccoon within a five mile radius tearing apart your compost every night.
Depending on how small your space is, I've had good luck with bins built of pallets. Five pallets would give you two bins which makes turning easier. You can always find somebody who is lousy with pallets and will be happy to give you as many as you want.
And don't fall for the "compost starters" that most garden centers sell. You don't need them if your pile is constructed properly and who knows whats in that stuff. Good Luck!

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$0.02 worth-
I've always been a fan of the aerobic composter (rotary composter). Sure, worms are fun but bacteria can do the same work with just a few cranks a day.

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Hello Carrie, I am Vitoo here from Chennai City in INDIA. I am a Tea Planter with decades of practical knowledge in this field. I note what you write and I suggest that you try the VERMI_COMPOST Method of Composting, by using the locally available EARTH WORMS. You can either try it out using a Wooden Box, in case you don't have enough space. If space is not a constraint, then you can make a Small Dug out Pit on the ground of size 4'(L) & 4'(B) with a depth of 3'. Then you should try to spread some Cow Dung mixed with some green vegetation to a height of about 9" to 12" and thoroughly wet the mixture and let it be nicely moist. Then you should mix the live Earth Worms into this and the allow it for 4 to 5 days for the worms to get settled in the new surroundings. Please strictly ensure that you Cover the Bed properly by using thick dark Mat, so that the Temp.inside the bed is kept low. In case, the Ambient Temp.is high, then you have to spray some Water on the bed, in order to give the Worms the ideal conditions to activate. Then you could start putting another Layer of your Kitchen Waste mixed with some Green leaves of thickness of 1' and continue the Light Watering and using the Cow Dung and Green Leaves Mixture etc., process for about a Month and leave this Pit for about 70 Days to 9o Days for the Decomposition of the Biodegradable materials to take place. Then you can get your own Best Quality of Vermi Compost Manure from your own backyard, for your Garden use. In case, you require any more details or clarifications, please feel free to send me a Mail. Wish you good luck. Best regards.

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Hi!

I'm an Agronomy student from Brazil. I work with composting since 2008.

I know that I'm posting this almost one year after you asked, but I have hope that you might still be interested in making a nice composting in your home.

My staff and I work teaching kids at public schools (In Brazil we have public and private schools) how to make a good non-smelling compost.

Would you still be interested?

Just e-mail me or answer to this reply and I'll make a very nice and personalized guide of how to make a fast, non-smelling, dry and clean composting.

For instance, I make it inside my small apartment, without any grows smell or anything =).

Here's a video of my professor Efraim Rodrigues (PhD in Harvard) showing to a brazilian Television his indoor composting . Also, there's one of my colleagues teaching kids how to do it with the food waste from the recess:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QKYKUlWnCR8&feature=related

See you.

Rafael Perroni - raperroni@gmail.com

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Latest from FARM AID

USDA Issues New Regulations Protecting Contract Farmers

JenThe USDA released regulations (PDF link) this week that will provide new, much-needed protections for contract poultry farmers.

Contract farming generally refers to a system in which a farmer raises or grows an agricultural product for a larger company. Contract poultry farmers invest their own money to build poultry barns to company specifications. Under contract, a company delivers the chicks to the grower who uses company feed and medicine to raise the chicks. The company retains ownership of the birds and dictates how the chicks are to be raised. The grown birds then go back to be processed by the poultry company for a previously agreed-upon price based on the birds' weight.

A typical chicken house costs about $300,000 to build, and most companies encourage growers to build at least four houses, for an investment in excess of $1 million. Frequently, growers take out loans covering that entire expense, only to find themselves dropped by the company, often with little or no notice. While there exists the potential for fair contracts in this agricultural system, that has not been the case historically. Contract growers have typically been extremely vulnerable, the contracts tilted against the grower who is subject to the whims of the poultry company. These new regulations issued by the USDA's Grain Inspection, Packers & Stockyards Administration will help change that system.

Under the new rules:
  • Companies must provide farmers with a written copy of the contract before the farmer makes an initial investment in his or her poultry houses;
  • Contracts with confidentiality clauses must allow farmers to discuss contract offers with federal or state agencies, immediate family members, business associates, farmers who contract with the same company, accounting services hired by the farmer, a lawyer or financial advisor before signing;
  • Contracts must state that if a farmer is put on a performance improvement plan (in other words, if they've received a warning that could potentially lead to their contract being terminated), they must be told why, what steps will be taken to help them improve, how they can regain good standing, and the factors that will be used to determine when or if the contract will be terminated;
  • Farmers must be notified in writing within 90 days before a contract is terminated, expired, not renewed or not replaced.
"I'm glad that USDA is taking action to protect growers," said Kevin Hux, a farmer in El Dorado, Arkansas, who raised chickens for Pilgrim's Pride until April, when the company closed its El Dorado processing plant and terminated 170 growers.

"When the company terminated my contract, the company representative left a message on my answering machine saying that the flock of chickens that we had would be our last," Kevin said. "We had no warning. No one should be in that situation."

Mickey Box, a farmer in Berryville, Arkansas, agreed. "Growers have been left in the dark," Mickey said. "When I was put on a performance improvement plan, I knew I could lose my contract. It would have helped to know how I could get back in good standing."

Becky Ceartas, director of the contract agriculture reform program at Farm Aid-funded group Rural Advancement Foundation International-USA (RAFI), said these rules increase fairness, transparency and good business practices.

"Before farmers make the financial commitment to build poultry facilities on their farms, they need to know exactly what's expected and what the terms of that arrangement will be," said Ceartas. "An informed farmer can make better decisions, and that benefits everyone."

Farmers and concerned consumers can get more information about these rules by calling Ceartas at (919) 542-1396 x209 or by visiting www.rafiusa.org.

The Administration will release additional proposed regulations in early 2010 that will deal with other competition and fairness issues in poultry and livestock agriculture—stay tuned!

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