THIS WEEK’S RECIPE: RÖSTI WITH SALMON AND HORSERADISH CREAM
For me, all roads lead back to food. Case in point: Winter makes me think of Switzerland, which in turn makes me think of Rösti (pronounced ROOSH-tee)—a.k.a. Swiss hashbrowns. I first learned about the dish from a Geneva-bred friend who could whip up a five-course meal in her sleep, but Rösti is the opposite of fancy. It’s crazy easy to make, especially if you omit parboiling and refrigerating the potatoes overnight. (Consensus has it those steps make for an airier, less compact potato cake. I’ll try that next time but, for a last-minute dinner, my fast-forwarded version left me full and happy.) I used this recipe as my starting point, with a few key tweaks, including the smoked salmon. You can add all sorts of ingredients and garnishes to your dish, but for my euro, Rösti isn’t Rösti unless it includes cheese. I opted for Gruyère and ladled horseradish cream on top.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED
FOR THE RÖSTI
» 1 lb potatoes, peeled and shredded (a large-hole hand grater is best; food processor less so)
» 1 ¾ tsp flour
» ½ tsp salt
» 3 oz cheese, shredded
» 1 ½ oz (or half a package) sustainable smoked salmon, flaked into small pieces
» 1 bunch scallions, sliced
» pepper to taste
» 2 Tbsp butter
FOR THE HORSERADISH CREAM
» 1.5 oz horseradish, grated fresh or jarred
» 3.5 oz crème fraiche (or Greek yogurt)
» juice of 1 lemon
» salt and pepper to taste
WHAT TO DO
Soak the grated potatoes in cold water for 5 minutes. Drain them in a colander, rinse, and drain again. Lay a clean towel over a bowl, spoon the potatoes into the towel, and wring out as much water as possible. Transfer the potatoes to a clean bowl. Add the flour, salt, cheese, salmon, and most of the scallions. Stir. Season with pepper.
Melt 1 Tbsp butter over medium heat in a nonstick skillet that has a lid. Add the potato mix to the pan in an even layer. Refrain from packing down, which will yield a denser cake (speaking from experience, here). Cover and cook 10 minutes. Uncover, loosen the edges with a heat-safe spatula, and flip onto a plate. Add the remaining butter to the skillet then shimmy the Rösti back in, uncooked side down. Cover and cook 9 minutes more.
Meanwhile, mix all ingredients for the horseradish cream. For a fluffier topping, beat the concoction with a hand-mixer, whipped-cream-style. When the Rösti is done, plate it, dollop with cream, and sprinkle with the remaining scallions.
Just a quick note that, according to my Swiss friend, one should never drink water with a cheesy dish like Rösti or fondue, her thoroughly scientific reason being that water and cheese aren’t a digestive match made in heaven. Better to drink wine, she says. Scientific or no, you don’t have to tell me twice. Guten Appetit!
With many farm shares winding down for the season, we’ve put the CSA Cookoff to bed for the year. Look for it again in late spring, sprouting along with the arugula and asparagus. In the meantime, meet HOME Cooked, a winter-friendly recipe file that revels in the earthier corners of the fridge and the pantry. Think root veggies and baked goods. We’ll post a recipe each week, featuring dishes from you. Don’t be shy. Share the goods. Especially the baked goods.